The Dining Room at the William IV pub Shepherdess Walk

It sounds like an outlandish fantasy, but the cosy, recently-refurbed William IV is a welcome reality.

Located off a main thoroughfare a 10 minute walk from Old Street, the black-painted pub with smart gold lettering has an unfussy, wood-panelled freshly-decorated downstairs bar with large, clear windows overlooking the street.

The downstairs bar is unfussy but cosy with low lighting and wood panelling. (Image: Rebecca B Jones)

Upstairs is The Dining Room, a wooden-floored informal candlelit space with scrub top tables, mismatched chairs, attentive service, and a pleasing chatter of happy diners.

Come the cold weather there's a fire to be lit as you enjoy your superior British classics. The aim is to deliver them at prices you can afford as a post-work treat while saving for a deposit on a flat in a distant outer borough.

Old Willie was notably a sailor King, which chimes with the maritime colour scheme, and fish-heavy menu - courtesy of Wright Brothers and their day boat catch from Brixham.

Ingredients are sourced from Wright Brothers fishmonger and meats are from Swaledale Butchers. (Image: Rebecca B Jones)

A 'Coastal Martini Shot' and Carlingford Oyster arrived as an appetiser - the crisp, briney mini cocktail a perfect accompaniment for the shellfish liberally spritzed with lemon.

Starters hover around the £8-£9 mark and include a salty whipped cod roe scooped up with crisps, anchovies on toast, and a scallop with garlicky butter and breadcrumbs.

We loved the cultured butter with slices of St John's earthy brown sourdough, hot sticks of fluffy chive panisse rolled in parmesan and dunked into a basil pistou, and a marvellous hogget chop, browned on the outside, pink on the in, it's fatty layer offset by a hit of vinegary mint sauce.

The owners are determined to keep prices in the Dining Room affordable. (Image: Rebecca B Jones)

Of the mains, a flat iron steak with chips and choice of sauce comes in at £24 but the rest are well under that, including a perfectly cooked lemon sole with buttered samphire, velvety soft potatoes, and the subtle aniseed of tarragon and dill in the sauce - a highlight.

It's been a while since I've seen wild seabass on a menu, and here it's served with roasted-to-melting fennel, baby roast potatoes, and a tapenade that was a little too punchy for the delicate fish but still thoroughly enjoyed at £18.50.

There's a short selection of sides like triple cooked chips or sauteed leeks but most dishes are the full ticket - for carnivores - sourced from Swaledale Butchers - the pork chop with anchoiade sauce and dauphinoise looked dreamy, as did the Guinness glazed beef shortrib with mash.

Desserts included rice pudding and lemon tart but we tucked into a classic sticky toffee, and an orange syrup pudding that had a marmalade energy of bitter orange peel, ensuring it wasn't overbearingly sweet.

Drinks wise there's a cornucopia of wine, cocktails, draft beer and spirits and judging by the quality of cooking and ingredients the Sunday roasts are sure to be a treat.

So many pubs claim to serve food from these isles, but the Willie IV really is a celebration of the best of British in all ways.

William IV is at 7, Shepherdess Walk, N1.